Monday 13 August 2007

History By June Sampson

Kingston's reputation as a rich and leafy borough has cost it dear in terms of Government funding and other much-needed support. Yet this enviable image a recurring burden to those trying to tackle local problems is based mainly on one small corner of the Royal borough: Coombe, deemed in most surveys to be one of the six most prestigious residential locations in Britain.

Tony Murray, himself a Coombe resident, has written an engrossing history of a spot that is both the jewel, and in some ways a thorn, in Kingston's crown.

His book takes the form of an illustrated tour of Coombe Wood Conservation Area, which covers 40.6 hectares at the heart of the Coombe Estate.

First he explains how the lst Duke of Cambridge, seventh son of George 111, bought the rural Coombe Estate from Earl Spencer in 1837 (the Earl also owned Wimbledon Common, which he tried to have fenced off in the 1860s!). The 2nd Duke inherited the estate from his father in 1850, and began developing it by granting ground leases.

Because the Duke's marriage to the actress Louise Fairbrother was invalid, his descendants could not succeed to the title. So when he died in 1904 the estate passed to the FitzGeorge Trustees, who administered it on behalf of his two surviving sons until it was sold in 1933.

During the 19th century most Coombe residents were aristocrats and leading society figures, living in fine mansions. The early years of the 20th century saw smaller-scale development, and it was intended to build over the Coombe Wood and Coombe Hill Golf courses.

However, the council, under an Act of 1933, used a levy on local property owners to acquire several acres to safeguard the golf courses as open space, and ensure the estate roads remained private.

This was hailed as "a landmark in town planning legislation", and without it, says Tony, the period buildings would have long since gone, and the unique character of the area lost for ever.

In his book, he leads us along Warren Road, once part of an ancient track from Richmond to Merton Abbey, and the mills in the Wandle Valley. In 1850, there was a notorious court case when the Duke of Cambridge tried to close it to the public. The verdict was that the public had a pedestrian right of way, but wheeled traffic should be restricted to residents and their invitees a rule that still applies today.

Most of George Road was laid out by the Duke of Cambridge in 1867, though the section leading from Kingston Hill is much older. It ended at the gatekeeper's lodge (now White Rose Cottage) from whence a track led across fields to Coombe Farm (now the site of Coombe Hill School). Renfrew Road and Stoke Road date from the early 20th century, and were intended as the prelude to a development programme which mostly failed to materialise.

Kingston Council is responsible for the management and maintenance of all these roads, but is entitled to recover the costs from residents. However, Tony is critical of the council's achievements, or lack of, in this connection.

He describes houses and residents in fascinating detail. The oldest building, apart from the Tudor conduit houses in George Road, is White Rose Cottage. Originally two labourers' cottages, it was made into one in the 1940s or 50s and was reputedly the home of the notorious film star Eva Bartok in the 1950s.

Hampton Spring and Bruin Wood were both built in George Road (in 1906 and 1923 respectively) by Valentine Knapp, editor of the Surrey Comet for 30 years. Penlee, in Renfrew Road, was built in 1910 as The White House, and was the home of Kenelm Lee Guinness, the legendary racing driver and inventor of the KLG sparking plug.

Corner Croft, in Stoke Road, was built in 1923. For several years after World War 11 it was the home of Lord Tedder, deputy Supreme Commander under General Eisenhower during the D-Day operations. The general himself lived at Telegraph Cottage, in Warren Road.

Television producer Graeme Muir and his actress wife Marjorie Mars lived for 30 years in Mendip Cottage. This detached house on a three-quarter-acre site fetched a mere £1,650 when it was built in 1909! In 1957 it was converted into two houses.

Fare Lodge, in Warren Road, and Pen Lodge, on Kingston Hill, were originally stables for Fairlawn, in Warren Road. This private mansion, built 1865/70, was compulsorily purchased by Surrey County Council in 1951, and is now a day centre.

High Pine was built in Warren Road in 1956, and was owned by pop musician Phil Collins. Ravenswood Court is a group of old and modern buildings grouped around the Victorian mansion, Ravenswood. Actor Joss Acland lived in the mansion for many years, and Rolling Stones guitarist, Ronnie Wood, occupied the former keeper's cottage before moving to a house on Kingston Hill.

The grandest surviving mansion to survive is Warren House. Built in 1865 for banker Hugh Hammersley, it was a favourite retreat for the cream of society, including Edward V11, Queen Mary, George V and prime minister William Gladstone.

John Galsworthy, father of the famous author, built three mansions in George Road, two of which survive, as the Rokeby and Holy Cross schools. His son gives a lyrical description of the area in his Forsyte Saga, which is largely set in Coombe.

Much of the idyllic calm has gone since then. As Tony Murray comments, "For many years the increasing volume of unauthorised traffic using the estate roads has been a problem the amount of school traffic has also greatly increased, with rush hour congestion and frequent disregard of parking courtesy. At these times the reference to a unique rural atmosphere' becomes painfully sardonic. At quiet times, however, the tranquillity of bygone days can still be enjoyed by those who care to stroll through the conservation area to savour the pages of architectural and social history."

Take his book with you while walking, and you will be sure of a thoroughly absorbing few hours.

The book costs £5.99 and is available from Kingston Museum, Borders Book Shop, Kingston, or Cannings, New Malden.

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